Torque Wrench, 21mm socket (or 14mm allen head for later model bikes), 10mm Allen Head Socket, Channel Lock Pliers or a Filter Wrench, Oil, Filter, New Crush Washers.
The first step is to get all the necessary equipment and tools. The 21mm and 10mm allen
need to be sockets rather than wrenches because you will need to torque them to the correct setting. A torque wrench is required for all kinds of maintenance, so now is the time to bite the bullet and get one (reasonably priced ones are available at Sears and the like). You will also need about 4 liters of your preferred oil (I use 15w50 semi-synthetic Motul, but if your engine has less than 2,000 miles I would not recommend synthetic because the motor is still in the break-in stage). You also can't forget the oil filter and a crush washer for the oil drain plug and a crush washer for the filter screen bolt. The washers are cheap at 50 cents each, the filter is about $10, and the oil runs me $20.
The first step is to heat the oil up with a short ride. Then place the drain pan under the engine, and place the bike upright (like on a stand). Next, take your 10mm allen and tap it into the drain plug with a hammer (if necessary, just to make sure it is completely seated)). This is done to ensure that the drain plug is not stripped, which is very easy to do. After the socket is tapped in, you can remove the plug and let the oil drain. I had a shorty drain pan during this shoot, but left it behind when I moved. My new drain pan didn't fit under the bike, so I rigged up this contraption. It's an oil bottle cut open and attached to
an antifreeze bottle. It works great in a pinch and was free to make. You will also notice that the socket may not want to disengage from the drain plug- don't worry, we will remove it once the drain plug is back in (further down).
Next, take your oil filter wrench (or channel locks, or Craftsman strap wrench in my case) and remove the old filter. It will probably be on there very tight, especially if the oil has not been changed before. After it is removed, you can let the oil drain
from that orifice for a while. Be sure the drain pan is underneath to catch the oil that will come out. My new drain pan wouldn't fit under the filter either, so I just cut a hole in the top of the antifreeze bottle and it worked fine. Once the bottle was full, I dumped it into the real drain pan and took it to the recyclers.
Now, take the oil filter and pour oil into it until it starts to overflow, wait for it to settle, and keep adding until it is full. This is done to ensure that the engine doesn't hit a dry spot in the lubrication chain. Don't fill it all the way or it will spill everywhere when you try to tighten it on again. Very lightly coat the rubber gasket with oil, then spin it into place. When the filter just barely touches the engine block, continue to spin 3/4 to 1 full turn, but no more. You don't want to overtighten it.
Now for the oil filter screen. Take your 21mm socket (or 14mm hex bit) and loosen the bolt head that is on the side of the engine, just below and to the right of the oil level sight glass. Remove the bolt and slide the filter screen out. On models with the 14mm allen outer, you will now need to remove the 14mm allen inner, which actaully holds the
screen. On these models it is in there TIGHT, and you may need a breaker bar. There may be some crud here and there, but you are mainly checking for metal bits. If there are very tiny shavings (especially during engine break-in), do not be alarmed. If there are numerous shavings and chunks of metal, that could be a sign of several things. The transmission gears could be damaged, or the rocker arms could be flaking the chrome off (on four valve motors). Luckily, the only thing I found on my filter was a chip of red paint. Clean it off,
replace the crush washer with your new one, put it back in, and tighten to the required torque (this spec can be found on Ducati's website or in the service manual for the bike).
Also, do not use the torque wrench to remove the bolt as the picture shows- I simply did this to show where the bolt was. Use a normal ratchet and socket or an end wrench.
Next, take the drain plug and replace the crush washer, then tighten it to the correct torque (again, this spec can be found on Ducati's website or in the service manual). Now, to get the socket out, I simply took a pair of pliers and pried between the chrome portion of the socket and the face of the drain plug. It came out pretty easily that way.
Now you can fill the engine with oil. My engine took quite a lot (over 3 liters), but I ended up draining a little later. Just slowly add the oil and constantly check the sight glass (with the bike level and turned off of course, which requires a stand or a buddy), because you don't want the engine overfilled. It should be between the two marks on the sight
galss. Once it's full, start the bike up. You'll notice that the oil warning light may stay on, but if it doesn't go off after ten seconds you should turn the bike off and wait for the oil to drain back down, then check the level and fill accordingly. Then start it again and go for a ride.
Once back from the ride, wait for the bike to cool down, put it upright again, then fine tune the oil level (which you may notice has risen slightly). If you need to drain it, I would use the oil filter screen bolt because of the stripping issue of the drain plug.
The very last step is to recycle the oil. Don't just dump it down the drain or throw it out- that is completely unacceptable. Many auto parts stores and gas stations accept used oil for recycling. Just funnel the old oil into the container and take it to a recycling center.
There you're done. Congratulations :)